IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, Image: WB
IWC Portugieser Jubilee 5441, Image: Rave
The movement of choice was that of the calibre-74 as a base to build upon.
The diameter of the first Portuguese measured a large 42mm, which was
considered huge back then compared to wristwatches popular in 1939 that
generally measured below 33 mm. This did not match the trend at the time that was more oriented around small watches in Art déco style. In the 1930s it was seen as obtrusively large, it would serve as a forerunner in the move to larger watchcases. The key to the design of the Portuguese was in its simple design.
The large dial would feature Arabic numerals, large running second's subsidiary dial at 6 o'clock, feuille hands, and a very thin bezel that only accentuated the size of the Portuguese.
IWC used a number of dial and hand variations on the reference 325, but
most commonly used was a silver dial with embossed Arabic numerals. Only a few hundred were produced from 1939 to the early 1980s.
IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Chronograph 3714
In the 1990s, IWC revived the Portuguese and chose the perfect time to do this during the company's 125 th
anniversary in 1993. IWC introduced the reference 5441 that sported a
case diameter of 42 mm, silver dial, applied Arabic numerals, seconds
sub dial at 6 o'clock, and feuille shaped hands – all the
hallmarks of classic Portuguese -, produced in 1750 pieces: 1000 in
stainless steel, 500 in rose gold, 250 in platinum.
In 1995, IWC started expanding the Portuguese line with nothing short
of a highly complicated masterpiece and released the Minute Repeater
reference 5240 in only 550 pieces: 50 in platinum, 250 in rose gold, and
250 in yellow gold.
Two years later in 1997, the company introduced the model that became
one of the biggest icons in the whole watchmaking industry: the Portuguese Chronograph 3714.
The elegant and simple appearance with a modern size of 42 mm diameter
and the perfect choice of dial and material variations make it a
timeless classic.
Today the Portuguese line is not only one of the most important and
successful IWC collections, but also offers a wide range of watches from
simple hand-wound pieces and flyback chronographs to perpetual calendars and constant-force tourbillons.
